Do your kids kick the back of your front car seats? Silly question – I know! Sure they do. And if you like a clean car like I do, this probably drives you crazy!
About a year ago I had purchased several different products that were made to protect the back of the seats…none of which fit properly and really didn’t fit my needs – so if you remember, I made my own. You can see that post HERE.
Well, let me tell you, these have been AWESOME! But after a year they have worn themselves out. After many washings the elastic has become weak and the fabric won’t come clean from shoe dirt abuse (which I am happy was not on my seats)! So I decided to make some new ones with a few modifications to make these protectors even better.
This time around I used a heavier duck cotton (canvas) to prolong their life. I also added a heavy-weight interfacing to the back main panel to add a bit more structure. I modified the shape a tiny bit and added a 4″ wide strip of Sew-In Peltex along the very top to keep the fabric from drooping along the top and withstand the headrest holes better. Finally, I separated the top pocket into two because it always hung open given the wide width.
While remaking them, I took some photos and drew up some diagrams so you can replicate these for your car. These are made to fit a 2009 Acura MDX, but they should work for most cars if you take measurements and modify as needed!
What You Will Need:
This makes ONE (1) seat protector. Double for 2.
- 1.5 Yards Fabric. I used Duck Canvas, but any cotton or even laminate would work well
- 1 Yard Fusible Heavy Weight Interfacing
- 1 Piece 15″ x 4″ Firm Sew-In Peltex
- 1 26″ Piece of 1/4″ Elastic
- 1 26″ Piece of 1/2″ Elastic
- NOTE: Depending on the shape of your seat you may need to modify the length of elastic you need!
Ready to make one? Click to see more!
Step 1: Measure Your Seat
Take the time to measure the length and width of the back of your seat so you can customize this protector to fit perfectly. If you have an Acura MDX, well you are in luck because all of the work is done for you!
STEP 2: Cut Your Fabric & Interfacing
You need TWO (2) pieces for your main panel & TWO pieces for each pocket. For the angled pieces, start by cutting rectangles, then cut the corners off. So, cut the following:
2 – 19.5 x 28″
2 – 19.5 x 9″
2 – 19.5 x 10.5″
1 – 19.5 x 28″
Cut the corners off the top of the main panel and top pocket according to the measurements below.
Iron the interfacing to the back of one of the main panels.
STEP 3: Prepare the Pockets
Using a 1/4″ Seam allowance, place the the respective pocket pieces right sides together and sew along the top and bottom of each leaving the sides open.
Turn right side out and press. Top stitch along the top edge of each pocket.
STEP 4: Add Pockets to Main Panel
Place and pin the pockets in place on the main panel WITHOUT the interfacing. Placement is shown below.
The top pocket is placed 4″ down from the top and the bottom pocket is placed 3″ up from the bottom. You can of course modify this if you are using customized measurements…this is only a guide.
Sew along the sides and across the bottom (1/8″ seam allowance) of each pocket.
Now is the time to divide your pockets. I just put a seam down the middle of both making 4 equal sized pockets, but you can do whatever you like!
STEP 5: Add Peltex
Take your 4″ strip of Peltex and line it up against the top. Sew along the angles and across the top. Clip off the excess peltex at the corners.
STEP 6: Add Elastic
Place the 1/4″ wide elastic ends right where the main panel angles in and the 1/2″ wide elastic at the bottoms of the bottom pocket like so:
The elastic should lay against the front of the pockets (make sure it isn’t twisted) with the cut edges lined up with the raw edges of the fabric. Baste the edges in place.
STEP 7: Assemble
Now it’s time to put this together. Place the back main panel on top of the pocket panel (right sides together and pin. Sew along the perimeter using a 1/2″ seam allowance and leave a 4-5″ opening at the bottom to turn.
Turn right side out and push out the corners.
Top stitch around the entire perimeter (moving elastic out of the way as you go). The topstitch will close up the opening at the bottom.
STEP 8: Add Headrest Holes
Determine where your headrest holes need to be. The most accurate way to do this is to physically take the protector out to your car and mark where they should fall. For those of you using my measurements, I placed my holes 1″ down from the edge and 1.5″ in from the sides. The button holes are 1.5″ long.
(Forgive me for the quality of these photos…I did this before 6am and had no desire to pull out all of my lighting equipment!)
So what are you waiting for….go make some seat protectors and breathe a sigh of relief knowing that your kids aren’t destroying your car upholstery one kick at a time!